Gage & Tollner: 372 Fulton St., between Smith Street and Red Hook Lane in Downtown Brooklyn. www.gageandtollner.com. (347) 689-3677. Open daily, 5-10 pm.
The full martini list includes vodka, gin, dirty, perfect (equal parts sweet and dry vermouth), a Gibson, and the Turf. Non-martini cocktails cost $16, but do not come with a sidecar (not even the Sidecar, which is disappointing).
I’ve visited the bar three times. The first two times, the drinks were fantastic. On my last visit, they were just okay. I suspect that the really good bartenders do not work the Wednesday afternoon shift.